Franklin's historic core has genuine pre-1960s housing stock still running original galvanized supply lines in some cases, and neighborhoods built in the 1980s occasionally have polybutylene, both of which are past their realistic service life and prone to internal corrosion or joint failure. A whole house repipe replaces the supply lines with PEX or copper, and we plan the route to minimize how much drywall needs to come down.
OverviewReplaces the actual failing material instead of patching leak after leak.
Options presented with real tradeoffs, not a single default pushed on every job.
Routing planned to limit drywall cuts, with clean patch-ready openings.
Stops the cycle of recurring pinhole leaks in aging pipe.
Galvanized pipe corrodes from the inside out, which means a homeowner often doesn't see the problem until water pressure has already dropped noticeably or a pinhole leak shows up inside a wall. Polybutylene, common in some 1980s and early 1990s construction nationally, is prone to joint and fitting failure as it ages. Both situations, common enough in Franklin's older housing stock, eventually point toward a full repipe rather than a series of individual patch repairs that keep recurring.
Common SignsMultiple unrelated leaks over time is a strong sign the pipe material itself is failing.
Internal corrosion narrowing galvanized pipe diameter over years.
Rust inside galvanized supply lines, not just a single fixture issue.
Homes built with poly-B are generally considered due for replacement regardless of visible symptoms.
Find out if a repipe actually makes sense for your home.
The clearest sign isn't a single leak, it's a pattern. One pinhole leak in an old galvanized line is a repair. A second unrelated leak a year later, plus dropping water pressure across multiple fixtures, means the pipe material itself has reached the end of its service life and further individual repairs are just delaying the same outcome. For homes with confirmed polybutylene, insurance carriers and inspectors often flag it regardless of current symptoms, which is worth knowing before it becomes a sale or refinance issue.
ProcessConfirm pipe material and map the full existing supply line route.
Route new lines to minimize the number of wall or ceiling openings.
PEX or copper run to every fixture, old material capped and removed.
Full system pressure tested, openings left clean for drywall patching.
This is a bigger decision than most plumbing calls, which is why we walk through the actual condition of the existing pipe, current water pressure readings, and a real cost comparison against continuing to patch individual leaks before anyone commits to a full repipe.
FAQsPEX is more flexible, less prone to freeze damage, and generally lower cost installed. Copper has a longer track record and some homeowners prefer it for that reason. We present both honestly.
We plan routing to minimize openings, but some drywall access is unavoidable. We leave clean, patch-ready cuts.
Not necessarily. One isolated leak is usually a repair. A repipe becomes the right call when leaks recur or pressure drops system-wide.
Many insurers and inspectors treat confirmed poly-B as a liability regardless of current condition, since failure is considered a matter of when, not if.
Find out if a repipe actually makes sense for your home.
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